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bohemian
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bullet Topic: turbo questions
    Posted: 01 July 2003 at 3:24am
is there anyway to hook a turbo up to a l20b????
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pakal
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bullet Posted: 01 July 2003 at 4:03am
many ways , fuel injected or carbed? or take a L series 6 cylinder turbo set up cut away the middle and reweld to fit L 4 cyl. engines .
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bohemian
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bullet Posted: 01 July 2003 at 4:08am
tight is there any info that i can find to help me do this because that would be sweet
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bohemian
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bullet Posted: 01 July 2003 at 4:09am
oh and it would be carbed
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Bleach
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bullet Posted: 01 July 2003 at 9:27am

oh, that's different. Carbed is not nearly as good, and going with a 4-cyl you'll find even less power. Are you sure you dont' want to just convert to fuel injection? You'll probably get as much torque and hp increase as a carbed turbo.

http://www.bryanf.com/mycars/black510.htm

http://home.att.net/~jason510/turbo.htm

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bohemian
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bullet Posted: 01 July 2003 at 3:28pm
is the conversion to fuel injection hard?
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nwdeorg
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bullet Posted: 01 July 2003 at 4:59pm

Hard is something that is relative. I think even if it is hard it is a far better choice then carbs.

I would rather spend my time figuring out the FI than replacing holed pistons because my throttle shaft bushing blew out and sucked a bunch of air in and made the mixture go way lean. There is really no way to control fuel mixture with the percision needed for a successfull turbo conversion using carbs. In fact all the modern turbo books don't even really discuss carbs other than stating that you shouldn't use them.

Randy

 

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Bleach
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bullet Posted: 02 July 2003 at 9:37am

And that one link shows the guy using a single SU carb with a turbo. How much fuel do you think that single carb can put out? Enough to run a 2.0 engine normally aspired? Probably not well... so he's probably limited to about 4-5 psi boost. Basically it adds about 20lbs of torque and 15hp to this base engine and that's the limit because of fuel restrictions and the fact that there is no intercooler.

Yes, the transfer to fuel injection is hard. Honestly, I think you'll find it about the same cost/amount of work to just convert to a different engine that already comes from the factory with fuel injection/turbo on it. If that sounds interesteing, look into the options. SR20 somthing... is a 4-cyl turbo. I think found in the mid 80's 200SX turbo. Or even the common V6 300ZX turbo. VG30T or the 280zx's straight six L28T. That would bolt up to the stock transmisison but require you to move your radiator elsewhere, and who knows if the turbo on the exahsut manifold would clear your torsion bars...

If what you're really after is a cheap upgrade to get some real world horsepower out of your stock Datsun engine, then look into other ways of building your engine normally aspired. The mothods of building the engine itself are totally different between the two. Do not build up a n/a engine thinking that one day you'll slap on a turbo. That's the wrong way to go. A turbo would prefer a stock cam and internals with the money put into fuel injection setup, intercooler, and intake/exhaust work. Horsepower isnt' cheap, but sounding like a lawnmower is.

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datsunaholic
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bullet Posted: 02 July 2003 at 10:20am
The 80s 200SX turbo (here in the US) had a CA18ET. Don't know the specs of that engine- too modern for me.
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bullet Posted: 02 July 2003 at 1:32pm
this is what I found out about the CA18ET from http://home.att.net/~jason510/turbochoice.htm


6) CA18ET/CA18DET. Atho the names are similar, these are remarkably different engines. The CA18ET is the SOHC turbo engine found in the '84-'85 200sx. The stock CA18et is only rated at 120hp and is notorious for cracking the exhaust manifold. You could easily build a streetable naturaly aspirated L20B with as much HP. Since the CA series motors are completely different from the L series blocks, you will have to engineer motor mounts, oil pan and tranny swap to get it to fit into a 510. By the time you replace the cracked manifold, upgrade the turbo, upgrade the fuel injection so it can run more
boost you have probably spent enough $$ to buy/build a decent turbo setup for a L series or be well on your way to a turbo NAPS-Z. Why bother? Meanwhile, the CA18DET is a Japanese import engine with DOHC, 16 valves, quad mini-butterfly throttle plates & quad spark plug mounted ignition coils. Truely a high tech engine that is the 4-cylinder relative of the famous RB26DET skyline engine. The CA18DET was only produced for a short time and it predated the SR20DET so is a very rare engine in America. Interesting compairison of the CA18DET to the SR20DET here and even more CA18DET info here. If you could find a CA18DET it would be worthwile conversion but messing with a domestic CA18ET (SOHC) is probably an expensive dead end.

CA18ET sounds like a waste of time...
Might be better off with a redtop SR20DET if your serious about running a turbo since it is already setup and has massive support right now?!

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bullet Posted: 02 July 2003 at 2:51pm

Also sounds like a KA24DE with some bolt-ons would have more power and probably close to as much as the factory CA18DET. 150 +/- hp

It could also depend on your goals. The smaller the engine, the more boost is required to get your hp numbers up. If you're looking for 200-250hp you might be better off with a 6-cyl turbo. You can probably run the stock turbo and fuel injection setup that way and do other tweaking like intake/intercooler and exhaust work and just max out the boost capabilities of the factory turbo. if you want a good 160hp / 170 lbs of torque maybe that would be what the 4-cyl turbo is good for without massive investment.

As for me, I think 160hp/190 lbs of torque will be fine with my mildly modified L28 n/a.  ....and overall it should be cheap!

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bohemian
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bullet Posted: 02 July 2003 at 4:53pm
so what do i have to do to switch to fuel injection?
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Bleach
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bullet Posted: 02 July 2003 at 5:08pm

1) Fabricate an intake manifold, with injector bosses (holders) and fuel rail holders. This is the hardest part. if you can't do it, then you can't make the system.

http://www.zipcon.net/bleach/pages/620tech_fast.html#fuel

2) Fab the fuel rail

3) attach a throttle body and find a 4-cyl car and adapt the wiring harness and computer to your intake/engine.

4) Hook up all the little goodies, modifying or customizing as nessisary.

5) Hook up your turbo and plumbing. I'm not sure how you'll make the turbo exhaust manifold though. Maybe use the short exhaust manifold from the late L20b and hook a sharp angled L-pipe on the bottom to hold the turbo then continue the exhaust down and around the torsion bars.

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datsunaholic
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bullet Posted: 02 July 2003 at 5:12pm
Easy:

Find or make a fuel injection manifold (FI 4-cyl L-series manis exist, they usually sell between $250-500 on eBay depending on completeness. They are VERY rare as the L18E was only sold in Japan on a select few models.

Find all the rest of the components, for an L20B the closest match is a NAPS-Z powered 200SX w) Z20E or Z22E. These components would be the air flow meter, EFI wiring harness, ECM (brain box), EFI relay, and other parts depending on how complete the EFI manifold you have is (at a minimum the mani will need injectors, the Throttle Switch, Cold Start Valve, and Throttle body).

Off a 280Z you'll need the thermostat housing as it contains temperature sensors needed for the EFI to work.

You'll need a fuel pump capable of providing the pressure the EFI system needs. Can't use the mechanical one and carb-type Electrics are too weak.

That means replacing the fuel lines to handle the pressure.

If you use the brain off a '81 or later 200SX you'll need to add an O2 sensor.


There's more. That's for an L-series. If you went with a NAPS-Z out of a 200SX then I'd just find a donor car and start there. Cheaper than buying the pieces individually, but you have an engine with less potential doe to the smog heads. No such thing as performance NAPS-Z heads that I've seen, and you can't change the valve sizes due to clearance and casting issues. But that IS the setup I have, just haven't assembled it all. I even have the Z18ET Turbo intake/exhaust to try to turbo my Z20, but it's a long-term project that's a few years off at the rate I'm going. No, the stuff isn't for sale.

'64 320
'68 520
'72 521 V6
'74,75,79 620s
'76,78 4X4
'76 KC
'72 510 Wgn
'78 B210
'78,81 510 Wgn
2X '78 510 Coupes
'83 720 KC

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bohemian
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bullet Posted: 02 July 2003 at 5:23pm
jeez i think i'll just save my money and put the 300z twin turbo motor in my datsun it'll cost about the same ta do and id have way more power.
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bullet Posted: 02 July 2003 at 6:27pm
I don't know if you can get hold of them in the states but a CA20 is the perfect EFI engine swap.These came out in the R31 Pintara in Australia and the only mods required is to the sump + enlarging holes behind the existing engine mount.Using the engine mounts out of the Pintara this motor bolts straight in. Not sure yet but i have been told the CA18DET has the same block mounting as the CA20 might be worth looking at!!!!!
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bohemian
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bullet Posted: 03 July 2003 at 2:24am
well i can get eather the 300zx motor with wiring harness and comp for about 1200 so i think im gonna + that engine with any aftermarket exahst adds 50 hp so id have around 300 horse
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datsunboy
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bullet Posted: 03 July 2003 at 2:55am
Well.....check out this page for inlet manifold Fabrication.,...

http://www.sdsefi.com/techinta.htm
http://geocities.com/datsun510power
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Bleach
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bullet Posted: 03 July 2003 at 9:20am

Nowhere have I seen an exhaust that adds 50hp, even at the flywheel. The 300ZX twin turbo I saw on a dyno that was stock put down about 280hp. Another one with exhaust work, K&N filters, and higher boost put down about 320hp.

It takes more than freeing up some pressure to bring out that kind of power. You may not be running any catalytic converter, so that will help...

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Hainz
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bullet Posted: 03 July 2003 at 10:15am
I say give up that L-series FI set up. Its not worth it anymore with the newer motors out there.

Dave Carrol was making Nissan V-6 kits a while back using a Carbed intake manifold and a Saudi Arabian spec Distributer. To get rid of the electric.
Dave was using a 500cm Holly. Its a more basic hook up.
These parts are in the 2002 Motorsport book. The Dist and manifold.
As for Dave making kits. Who knows. He was making X member also for the trans. He might still have some.
Try
dave @vg30.com or www.vg30.com is his site if still there
he hurt his back so he might not be making anything anymore.But a wealth of info.
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