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Topic: My Truckita
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motav8td
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 bullet Topic: My Truckita
    Posted: 29 March 2007 at 3:40pm
Its has some stuff done to it. L20b, L16 Non EGR straight Intake, header, overhaul on engine, etc. Take a look!!!
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l2eDeYe
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 bullet Posted: 29 March 2007 at 11:16pm
Looks good.

Needs some wheels :D
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phatdave
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 bullet Posted: 30 March 2007 at 7:21am
Nice!
'73 620,L20b,U67,header,S.U.'s
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Hainz
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 bullet Posted: 30 March 2007 at 1:10pm
Nice truck
YOu sure there is a L20b in there? Well going by the stat house ya your right.
You have the early style radiator in there. If later you can get the 78/79 3 core rads and use the upper radhose also for the same model. But if it works call it good

The guy should have installed the distributor 180 the otherway so tha vaccum adv isnt so close to the rad hose.

summit racing has the Belltech #6202 3 inch lowering blocks.
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motav8td
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 bullet Posted: 31 March 2007 at 12:18pm
Actually I pretty much did everything on the truck. The only thing I did not do to it was the 2 and a half exhaust with magnaflow, Alignment, and u joints...
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Hainz
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 bullet Posted: 01 April 2007 at 12:08pm
2.5 inch exhaust?????
Hmmm I only have 1.75 with a SuperTurbo mufflers. I bet you lost power!!!!!!
But I like your truck.Dont over heat it and it will last a long time.
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motav8td
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 bullet Posted: 06 April 2007 at 1:50am
I HAVE A MAJOR QUESTION! WILL RUNNING THE HOSE FROM ONE OUTLET TO THE INLET CAUSE ANY HEATING PROBLEMS? "THE ONE HOSE GOING OVER THE COVER" PLEASE HELP I DONT WANT TO BLOW MY ENGINE....
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l2eDeYe
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 bullet Posted: 06 April 2007 at 11:06am
I believe that hose is to bypass the t-stat for heating purposes. I think Hainz mentioned a while back  that you can block that off a drill the t-stat to get the same effect.

You may want to ask him to be sure tho.
dos dattos
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datzenmike
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 bullet Posted: 06 April 2007 at 9:52pm
I thought it was there to flow water past the thermostat so it could sample it's temperature. After all, when the thermostat starts off cold and closed there's no circulation inside the block, or very little, and none past the thermostat. Also, the thermostat is not in the head, it's mounted on a housing bolted to the side of the head and it would take a bit more time for the heat to conduct out to it. The temp sender is out there too, and would read a lower temperature than it actually is inside the block and head. I would leave it connected.
'78 620 flatbed,'79 dizzy, Bosch 90 amp alt.,p.s.,Z 5 speed, '80 transfer case,toyo 4:10 ft. axle with 4 piston calipers,'85 4x4 wire harness and dash,2oo sx elect. windows, 12.50x33 tires on 82 frame
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motav8td
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 bullet Posted: 07 April 2007 at 3:17pm

I THOUGHT ABOUT THAT. IT WILL SAMPLE THE WATER TEMP WHEN THE THERMOSTAT IS CLOSED. BUT WHAT ABOUT WHEN IT IS OPEN? I BELIEVE WATER WILL NOT RUSH DOWN TO THE RADIATOR FOR PROPER COOLING SINCE THE WATER WILL FLOW TO ANOTHER EXIT.... "THOSE HOSES WERE USED FOR HEATING UP THE GAS THAT GOES IN THE INTAKE, BUT THE HEAD HAS NO HOLES FOR THE WATER TO CIRCULATE...." ANY OTHER IDEAS? WHAT ABOUT CLOSSING THEM UP? WILL THAT CAUSE ANY PROBLEMS.....
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datsunaholic
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 bullet Posted: 07 April 2007 at 7:28pm
That hose is pretty big- stock it used a steel line and SMALL hoses on the ends. It's a T-stat bypass- it serves 2 functions- it lets the engine heat up evenly (rather than trapping pockets of cold water by the T-stat) and is also helps keep the water pump from cavitating due to zero flow.

This is the circ host om mine:



Kinda wraps around the 2 fuel lines, but you get the idea.
'64 320
'68 520
'72 521 V6
'74,75,79 620s
'76,78 4X4
'76 KC
'72 510 Wgn
'78 B210
'78,81 510 Wgn
2X '78 510 Coupes
'83 720 KC

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Hainz
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 bullet Posted: 07 April 2007 at 10:49pm
I only know the 510s that I have and my 521.

Now for this bypass in the T stat One 510 I had had had this bypass from the hotwater line(MATAL TUBE) to the lower part of the Stat housing.
On another 510 I had the hotwater line(METAL TUBE)that went strat to the intake(bottom part of carb) to let water in and goes thru the head.

Now I dont know if you head has holes or not to witch it flow. Some L20 had water holes some didnt.


NO what I did is get a lower T stat housing W/O the bypass cause the ones with the bypass the U shaped hose is not longer avail and I like the other no bypass cause it looked a little cleaner and I had these as exra parts. PLus I figure the less Hose the less chance to get a pin hole or leak. So what else I did is drilled a 1/8 hole in plate of the stat(or remove the jiggle valve and put a hole there if you like.


My motor cavitated more due to running OLD ANTIFREEZE then worrying about the bypass. Anitfreeze helps from forming bubbles.

I dont like the later L20b stat housings cuae you have to plug the holes esp if you go to sidedrfts and have to plug the inlet where the big intake hose is


also the Atsugi brand pumps are better they say cause they have more a curve on the impellers.
But be honest I have had good luck with the GMB brands(also made in Japan) also.

Not positive about this if one is beeter than the other when it comes to cavitation but if in dought get the Atsugi

Atsugi you can get at Mr-auto-parts.com
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datsunaholic
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 bullet Posted: 07 April 2007 at 11:56pm
I like using the L20B housings because they have that big port for the vacuum temp switch. It's a common size and fits (with a step down adaptor) a standard mechanical temp gauge.
'64 320
'68 520
'72 521 V6
'74,75,79 620s
'76,78 4X4
'76 KC
'72 510 Wgn
'78 B210
'78,81 510 Wgn
2X '78 510 Coupes
'83 720 KC

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motav8td
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 bullet Posted: 08 April 2007 at 12:25am
The head does not have the holes anymore. The old owner replaced the head but still connected the water hoses anyway! The water leaked into the intake and fried the original engine. I will post pics tomorrow of the original water intake and outake and the new one. So any one can see what I did. I can block them. But what Hains said, I got to buy the one with out the extra outlet... Thanks every one!
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Hainz
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 bullet Posted: 08 April 2007 at 12:36pm
Well if your sure the head does not have the water passage hole. I would just remove that big hose that goes to the intake(most are metal tubes)
But what I do is I cut the hose where it comes fron the water inlet. and just run a bolt and clamp it shut.

Datsunaholic has a good point on the lower water stat housing with the extra holes if you want a mechaical gauge. But i like the stock gauges(made in Jap)

also if removing the sender from those Lower stat housing most times it so corroreded they crack so I bought some new ones. 1 with a bypass and 1 with no bypass. I will get the part #s for you on monday.Remind me)If you need them also you need a new gasket that goes from the lower stat housing to head. These are hard to get so I made extra using a gasket sheet.Cut them out


Im a little confussed on the water going in the intake and frying the motor. This only can happen if the intake was loose and got sucked up into the intake thru the intake gasket???????????????
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motav8td
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 bullet Posted: 17 April 2007 at 3:12pm
Sorry for the late response. I had to replace the heater switch cus it was leaking... Then I had to insure it... The good this is that it does not over heat! ordered a Weber 32/36 today and some tie rods. Really want to make this baby fly you know! It's currently my daily driver, hopefully forever! Really sweet car... 
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motav8td
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 bullet Posted: 23 April 2007 at 4:55pm
before weber...  http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w104/assman7_2007/P4160025.jpg
after weber... http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w104/assman7_2007/P4230045-1.jpg

Does any one have a timing marker that goes on the side front timing cover of the l20b??? I need one.... Please help...
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Hainz
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 bullet Posted: 24 April 2007 at 10:16am
Motivated,
Looks good ,maybe you could shorten up the gas hose.
Get rid of that water line to the stat housing or find the correct pipe. That going over the valve cover is a bit hoky.

Did you put that short tube header on? The paint sucks on them. I know!!!!! How did it fit and does it leak. I have one myself but never used it.I had it ceramic coated. Did it make the truck Louder/faster??? I think headers are over rated but when it comes to a L20b its a cleaner and ezer set up to maintain. Example. Taking the intake exhaust apart. Ez to get those bolts out!!!The stock L20 ex man sucks!!!!!!!

PS you have to ask where is the mark on the pully at TDC/
Some later L18/20 had them on the left or the right side. So tell us which side is the Mark. (Not that I have one)
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motav8td
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 bullet Posted: 04 May 2007 at 12:45am
Hey Hainz. I removed the hose all ready! But cus the temp gauge is not working, I'm afraid that it might over heat. The truck now only has the water- inlet and outlet connected to the radiator, plus the two hoses for the heater. Is any one else running this same setup? Any who, got some stuff from the junker but still no SSS head... Here is what I got today! One Toyota shift boot "Starlet not shown, installed" And well the rest in the pic you guys know... http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w104/assman7_2007/P5030048.jpg
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Hainz
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 bullet Posted: 04 May 2007 at 5:41pm
My beater 510 with sidedrafts carbs was the same hoese hooked up. Just the 2 rad lines and the 2 heater lines.
run 160 54mm thermostat

My truck has the bypass and line to the intake to heat it. But I use this truck every day

My yellow car is the same as the TOP for heater hoses cause it has sidedrafts also. Run 160 stat


DRILL a 1/8 hole in top of the stat as your bypass!!!!!!!
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