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Topic: A 620 work in progress.....
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cb07
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bullet Topic: A 620 work in progress.....
    Posted: 03 July 2006 at 6:42pm
Hello all. I've been reading these forums for about 3 weeks ago, waiting for my confirmation e-mail, which never came. So I sent an e-mail about it not coming, and I managed to get an admin to do it for me! Thanks to whoever did that for me.

So I've got this 1976 620. It needs some help, which I plan on giving it. I've already bought a new carrier berring, struts, voltage regulator, fender, grill, and front valance. The truck was in great shape when I got it, but stupidly I made the mistake of running the front left side into a cinderblock wall. Yea, oops. So I'm holding out on the bumper and hood for now, they arn't needed greatly yet. I bought a new reciever and 6-1/2 speakers yesterday, I'm getting a sub and amp for free on friday. But that's not really what means alot to me. I want to build on the engine, but I really don't know anything about doing so. Here's some pics of my truck:


That's with the new fender


That's with the crappy messed up bumper, fender, hood, and grill. I post pics of my new pieces later.


1986 Prelude Seats. Gotta love U-Pull It.


My crappy dash. Anybody know where I can get a whole new one for cheap?


The engine. I think I need a new fuel pump.

Ok so I have a few questions.

Whats an SU carb? I've noticed alot of you have dual carbs sitting to the side, instead of having the air cleaner sitting up like the stock Hitachi. Where should I get those? Cheap, preferably.

Whats the best intake manifold to mount those on?

What's a good aftermarket camshaft for this engine?

What electronic ignition should I put in?

I will need help with putting all this stuff in once I get all of it. I don't want to pay for labor at a shop when I could do this stuff myself.   

Oh btw, I have the bench seat that was in it. I think it was Ratwagon that wanted one. Wanna make a swap for those wheels you had on your truck? The spiral looking ones. Or I can just sell it. I'm sure i'll have more questions later, and I'll for sure add more pics. Thanks alot to everyone for all the help they've given me so far, without knowing it.
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pklotz70
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bullet Posted: 03 July 2006 at 6:47pm


Welcome to the forum!!!!
Paula (Gresham, OR)
'70 521
w/disc brakes
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cb07
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bullet Posted: 03 July 2006 at 6:48pm
Why, thankyou.
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phatdave
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bullet Posted: 03 July 2006 at 8:22pm
Most 620 owners would fist fight you for a good dash...but welcome aboard!
'73 620,L20b,U67,header,S.U.'s
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cb07
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bullet Posted: 03 July 2006 at 9:41pm
Yea, I've noticed the dashes as being hard to find. But that's ok. I can always buy a molded cover. Actually, I'll probably buy it when I buy a molded carpet.

But I've still got a problem. I have bought a brand new voltage regulator, a brand new starter, and a brand new battery. But when I try starting the truck, it still clicks a few times before it starts. I turn the key, it clicks, I turn it again, it clicks, etc until it starts. What else could be the problem?
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]2eDeYe
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bullet Posted: 04 July 2006 at 1:24pm
Welcome to the forums.

Sound's like you may have a bad starter solenoid right out of the box. Double check all your wiring connectors to from the battery to the starter...if that doesn't fix it try a new starter.
dos datsuns
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cb07
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bullet Posted: 04 July 2006 at 1:48pm
That's what I was thinking.

Does my truck have a torsion bar on the front?
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]2eDeYe
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bullet Posted: 04 July 2006 at 2:27pm
Yep, there are pic's around here and info on how to lower it. Lifting it is about the same.

dos datsuns
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steroid
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bullet Posted: 04 July 2006 at 3:52pm
Hi CB. Welcome!! First off, most of the guys on here have either the following.......... A pre- 1974 truck (requiring No smog) or live out of California, as do I. I lived there for all of My life before relocating to Arizona 7 years ago. I do know what the smog laws are and Gman is going through them right now trying to bring in a 1977 kingcab that He purchased in Arizona. If You live in California You will not want to change carburation until after Your truck gets past the cut off year for the smog. Another guy on here, Steve, just sold His truck because of this. So don't mess with side drafts just yet. Also, if You remove the catalatic be sure to save it as it will have to be replaced before Your next smog check. You did'nt say where You are located. Next, the torshion bars are very easy to locate. If You do a search on here You can find how to adjust them. It only takes a few minutes. Mine are down all the way. Tire size will get Your truck down even lower. Most of Our dashes are cracked. I owned three 620s that were purchased new and even back then they would crack. There are a few covers that can enhance the look. Hainz can help You out with a camshaft. Remember that most everything else will have to be left alone if You are in California. Hope this helps! Good luck.
Mike
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cb07
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bullet Posted: 04 July 2006 at 8:16pm
I live in New Mexico. So I have no worries.
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cb07
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bullet Posted: 06 July 2006 at 12:59pm
Ok I got my sound system and my grill on.  I'll post pics soon.
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datzenmike
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bullet Posted: 06 July 2006 at 10:27pm
Welcome. The S.U. stands for Skinners Union a carb manufacturer from Great Britain. They are variable venturi, constant velocity carbureters quite unlike most N. American ones. I guess their greatest asset is that they are almost infinitly adjustable for air and fuel mixtures, also their biggest fault. They are almost the ultimate carburetor, but at cost of time and bother.    Hitachi made a blueprint look alike for the Z car so you might try looking there to start. Look also in junk yards for MG's, Triumph, Volvo(up to '72) Saab. Two weeks ago I got a pair of SU's with volvo manifold for $10 (the wrecker had no idea what they were, and as I walked away, I'll bet we were both saying (sucker) under our breath.)
As for electronic ignition, get a distributer from a '79 or '80 truck, it will have a little black box on the side. Hence the term 'matchbox dizzy', it will eliminate the need for points and vastly improve starting and running. They are also available on other datsun cars as well. Remember, if they can fire a 6 cyl Z car to 7,000 + rpm they will easily fire a 4 cyl to 10,000
Take your time with your build up. Too many things changed too soon can lead to disapointments. Don't go buying and putting on stuff just because everyone else does. Be informed! Do your research! Gain experiance! Before going to double carbs, learn how to tune and adjust the stock one. A little cam increase can go a long way, you may end up with a truck that's barely driveable in slow traffic. They give crappy milage and shorten the life of other engine components.
The L 20 B was a fantastic motor, and still is! It produces a respectable 100 hp, and with a lot of mods, you can expect up to about a 50% increase in power. I'm talking REASONABLE amount of expence and bother using carbs, cam, headers, NOT turbos and NOx. If you want more power, you might seriously consider up grading to a larger motor.
'78 620 flatbed,'79 dizzy, Bosch 90 amp alt.,p.s.,Z 5 speed, '80 transfer case,toyo 4:10 ft. axle with 4 piston calipers,'85 4x4 wire harness and dash,2oo sx elect. windows, 12.50x33 tires on 82 frame
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cb07
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bullet Posted: 07 July 2006 at 1:59pm

Alot more power doesn't really matter to me.  And I hate nos, such a waste of an engine.  And as for turbos, I prefer N/A engines greatly. 

Thanks for the info though, it helps quite a bit.  Now I don't have to wonder what the heck SU means.

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