The story so far... steel exhaust port liners appear to restrict flow, decide to remove. Popular wisdom holds that they flow better left in. Maybe at 6 grand. Out they come!
    
   The left port has several casting bumps to hold liner away from walls to keep it glowing hot to help reduce emissions. There' one also at 7 o'clock and another just below the valve seat at the short turn radius, the worst place for turbulance. The right port has been modified, bumps gone, sanded, light polish. Port matched to square port exhaust or header.   

    There were also casting bumps on a built up 'mesa' surrounding the valve guide base. I removed these and the built up area on the outlet side of the valve guide base, providing a nice smooth exit. This is the area from 11 o'clock to 3 o'clock in the picture.                     
     Another problem area is below the valve seat. There is a terrible transition from the seat to the aluminum casting of the port. The seat position depends on guide position, and the ports don't line up well with them. I ground and smoothed downward from the bottom of the seat into the port cavity. If you reach in with your finger you can feel quite a sharp edge under the seat.
      
    In the above picture the light colored crescent shape below the seat at 1 o'clock, is the modified short radius. It is smoother with no sharp edges.
    Also, note that there is a slight ring around some or all valve seats inside this un-modified combustion chamber, and some are worse than others. The valve seat, when installed sits slightly into the head leaving a slight lip. I carefully polished them out to remove turbulance for inrushing gas/air or outrushing exhaust. If 3 angle valve jobs work, this can't hurt. Will try to lighten picture to show better detail and re-post at later date.

     The above intakes are beautifully thought out and made. Port matching on manifold side, some contouring and polishing below seat and done! Look at the smooth radius curves and flowing lines inside the port. Have to get intake yet, to properly match ports.
     Spent maybe 2 days so far. More to come

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    This is my ride. A good friend found it for me when I needed a truck to haul my firewood. He said the p/o wanted 100 bucks for it and the water pump leaked. I gave him the money and he brought back 25 saying he made a better deal for me. She cost $75, make that $74 (found a looney under the seat)
    !                                             

                             My '78 King Cab
    In the above pix, I've raised the body 4 in. put 10.50x31's on her, and some dodge daytona buckets. I call this 'Stage 2'. This was taken about 6 or 7 years ago, somewere on the prairies, on one of my trips to ontario.

    Above is 'Stage 3'. About 4-5 years ago I got a perfect '82 4x2 frame from a roll-over. I had a vague idea of what I wanted to do and collected parts in the back yard. My wife figured it was cheaper than drinking or therapy, (for her). Would anyone care to guess where the two headlights behind the grill came from? And how many watts they are? Hint... both lamps draw 20 amps each! This is why I put in a 90 amp alt.

    Above, I now have 12.50x33's. I replaced the trans last spring, so the only original thing left on the whole truck is... the motor. I haven't touched it in over 11 yrs. Even the cab was replaced after being stolen and rolled! Damn, those L20B's are tough!
    In the future I'll have to learn how to do some badly needed body work. (Always thought bodywork was just to the left of voodoo). BTW up untill I got my 33's the only thing she's been in the shop for was to have some tires balanced. Mounted them on rims, by hand, myself. I also stopped measuring body height above stock, at 14 in., before the 33's. (So I woulden't have to lie to my wife)       

How did you initally get the steel liners out of the head?

Wait....what head casting # is this? Square ports,peanut,liners?

I'm lost.....

    
    The 'headlights' will actually fit an old style 2 lamp system, (I used volvo pots to mount them). These are runway appropach lights from the air base. They are rated at a whopping 250 watts each, into 12 volts. The urge to use them on the street was too much, I retired them.

great truck Mike! i have 250 watt KC sealed beam bulbs in place of my highbeams. i know the temptation of which you speak. hee, hee.

   My body embarasses me..... thats why I don't drive around in my truck wearing a speedo. tee hee hee

   Did you upgrade your alt? I found 5 min. of use and the battery voltage would drop to where the stereo would baff out! Asked the wreckers for an alt. which is in very little demand, (because it doesn't wear out or go bad) and is around 90 amps. Low demand makes them cheap $40. A Bosch unit from a '87 K car, switch to Datsun pulley, the shaft and nut are the same size!, a little grinding where the mounting bolts go into the housing and almost done.
   You will need a seperate IC voltage regulator. Tried several Dodge/Plymouth ones, all worked fine, just mounted beside fuel filter on fender. S'funny how many small parts just walk out the door.
   A heavier gauge wire for the higher output, can be run to the positive terminal of the starter. Done, You can almost arc weld with this babby LOL.       

   Thank God! Whoops!
   I meant thank you ris, this takes a load off my mind and frees up a lot of time this weekend, otherwise spent in confession. hahaha