 | Projects North West Datsun Enthusiasts Forum : Member Rides : Projects Topic: My 65 L320 project! |
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RacnJsn95
Enthusiast 
Joined: 28 July 2004 Posts: 240 |
 Topic: My 65 L320 project!Posted: 08 April 2006 at 6:06pm |
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I went and bought the 65 that was in the classifieds today. I got it home, and start playing with it. It didn't come with any keys, so I hot wired it off the back of the key switch (It apprears to be one of those Napa universal replacement ones). It doesn't run. I think I've narrowed it down to a spark problem, because it's getting fuel. It does turn over though. Anyone have any ideas what the spark problem could be? Anyone out there have an ignition switch for this thing, with keys? I also need a lens for the fuel/temp guage cover. Thanks!
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Farmer
Enthusiast
Joined: 16 January 2003 Location: United States Posts: 441 |
Posted: 08 April 2006 at 10:44pm |
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Cool, nice truck. Where did you get that?
 Hope you get it started. Make sure you post pics.
Farmer |
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'78 Datsun Kingcab
'04 Ford Expedition 
'00 Chevy Work van |
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asavage
Enthusiast
Joined: 20 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 159 |
Posted: 09 April 2006 at 12:40am |
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Man, I'm glad you bought that one. I was fussing over it, I wanted it but just could not justify it. That is one cool box.
You could troubleshoot the ign system, but I've found over the years that I can save myself grief in the long run by just going ahead with the usual tuneup stuff in the beginning -- I'm going to need to replace it all anyway, it's always in that condition. Plugs Points Condensor Cap Rotor Plug wires (DON'T SKIP THIS ONE) New Oil & filter Air filter Possibly a belt However, a rough check can be made like this: take an old spark plug -- any plug will do, as long as it isn't a fouled plug -- and cut off the ground electrode at the side. Connect it to the distributor HT lead (ie pull coil wire from the cap, put it on the new plug), ground the plug body's side, crank engine. In free air (ie not under compression) if you have 5/16"+ spark the engine should fire. Be unconcerned about the relative color or "weakness" of the spark -- if it jumps 5/16" gap in free air, you've got at least 10Kv, and that's enough for most engines to light off. Does not matter if it "snaps", is blue, or white or pink. If no spark across that gap, troubleshoot in this order: a) power to coil (check at "+" side of coil primary) b) power to points (check with points OPEN, at points arm) c) points plate ground strap (vacuum advance breaks them) d) points condition and gap (consider replacing points) e) replace condensor f) replace coil With the exception of timing belt engines (dist doesn't turn if belt breaks), if you do those six steps, you will have enough spark to run. If your ign sys passes that test (ie has 5/16" spark at the coil's HT lead), reconnect the distributor's HT lead to the cap, pull one of the plug wires off any plug and connect your test plug, repeat the cranking test. Should get same result. If not, replace cap & rotor. Still no spark at plug wire? Check or replace plug wires. But, if it's a keeper, just replace all the normal ign stuff right off the bat -- you're going to have to anyway, for the long term. The coil I always assume to be good unless proven otherwise. They go bad, but not nearly as often as the condensor & points. I don't miss points, I love electronic ign, and always retrofit my old rigs with it. Pertronix are great. |
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asavage
Enthusiast
Joined: 20 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 159 |
Posted: 09 April 2006 at 12:41am |
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Do the L320s use cable-drive wipers ala Rootes, or do they use arms & bellcranks like the later rigs?
Great pic of you, the happy new owner, smiling behind the wheel. I envy you. Farmer, you'll have to edit your sig now 
Racn, if you can find a stock ign switch assy, I work as a locksmith (I call myself the "Sorcerer's Apprentice") and can make a key for it if you send it to me. If you have a key that fits the doors, I can likely rekey any OEM switch to work with that key. Or you can send me the door locks & an ign switch assy and I can rekey them alike. All stuff we do routinely, though not a lot from that era. I actually enjoy the automotive end of the work we do . . . having come from an automotive background. (The BMW door locks are a bitch, though, and I seem to do a lot of them). I'm just putting the offer out there. That's a truck I admire. |
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pac. coast 521
Expert 
Joined: 17 November 2003 Location: United States Posts: 1427 |
Posted: 09 April 2006 at 12:49pm |
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Racn congrats on the new truck. Asavage has posted some really good info for you that will help alot. One problem I had with my 65 is that the points were grounding out on the dist. body preventing it from starting. You may have to make the lense you need or check e bay, there was a guy parting out a whole 320 these past few weeks. And im running one of those temp ignitions also & it works fine, guess it's not a temp. anymore
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My 1965 L 320 {all original}
69 L 521 w/KA swap 94 Hardbody [custom] 74 620 project |
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RacnJsn95
Enthusiast
Joined: 28 July 2004 Posts: 240 |
Posted: 09 April 2006 at 6:19pm |
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I got it to fire up today. It runs really great for having old stuff... As soon as I get paid this week, I'm going to replace all the ign. related stuff. It ended up just being the point gap. But I have some bad news.... I got a little too excited about getting it running, and forgot that it... Kinda has no brakes... I wanted to drive it up in front of the shop, so I could work on it a little easier without walking back and forth to get the tools. So I put it in gear, and drove it towards the shop going to pull up behind my Dad's Powerstroke... Well it's about this time that I step on the brakes, and remember that there are none... Looking for the E-brake in a panic I forget that it is on the drivers side. The choices that I had were... A) hit the Ford. B) hit the flat bed. I choose the flatbed. There would have been a lot more damage to the 320 if I hit the Ford, and Dad would have been pissed at that... I feel like a complete dumb ass, but I know it could have been a lot worse... There was NO damage to the flatbed. Here's the damage... http://www.roguevalleyz.com/320/truck.jpg the flat bed that I ran into (or more accuratley, under). if you look close you can see the red paint on the frame. http://www.roguevalleyz.com/320/320hood.jpg the new crease in the hood. I managed to get most of it out with a body hammer and a dolly. http://www.roguevalleyz.com/320/320fend.jpg The fender and the headlight trim ring now have a nifty new crease also. I'm a pretty good body guy, but I think this fender is beyond my skills. http://www.roguevalleyz.com/320/320fend2.jpg The fender from another angle... this one really shows the damage... So now I have to try and find a fender, and a headlight trim ring also... I suck |
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BADPENNY
Enthusiast
Joined: 17 February 2005 Location: United States Posts: 406 |
Posted: 10 April 2006 at 9:49am |
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Oh MAN!! That totally sucks!!
 I don't think that fender looks TOO bad. Definetly repairable. Could be difficult finding another one. Just gotta ask,,, how'd she drive??!!
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77Westy,427Cobra,FenderAxe,
77KingCabDeluxe620,89Wrangler,00BMWZ32.3 |
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71-521
Expert
Joined: 24 July 2005 Posts: 1522 |
Posted: 10 April 2006 at 11:08am |
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just fix the ones you have...they're not too bad..
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pac. coast 521
Expert
Joined: 17 November 2003 Location: United States Posts: 1427 |
Posted: 10 April 2006 at 12:55pm |
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Sux big time! The fender isnt too bad. Id remove the light ring & light plus the frnder trim & hammer & dolly it out. You may be able to save the light ring too. Place it on a towel & use a small socket extension with a rag on the end & press down slowly by hand till the ding comes out.
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My 1965 L 320 {all original}
69 L 521 w/KA swap 94 Hardbody [custom] 74 620 project |
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RacnJsn95
Enthusiast
Joined: 28 July 2004 Posts: 240 |
Posted: 10 April 2006 at 8:55pm |
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I'm pretty sure all the stuff is salvageable, it will just take me a while to get it right again... I like to take my time with my body work. I worked on a fender for my 68 chevelle for 2 weeks (a few hours after work everyday) to get it just right... It'll just take me a while. Besides it having no brakes, it actually drove good. The clutch was a little hard to operate, it grabs like as soon as you even think about lifting it... I can't wait till it haves brakes so I can actually drive it. |
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Farmer
Enthusiast
Joined: 16 January 2003 Location: United States Posts: 441 |
Posted: 10 April 2006 at 10:21pm |
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Glad you got it running. Sorry to hear what happend. You'll be able to fix it.
Farmer |
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'78 Datsun Kingcab
'04 Ford Expedition
'00 Chevy Work van |
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pac. coast 521
Expert
Joined: 17 November 2003 Location: United States Posts: 1427 |
Posted: 11 April 2006 at 3:30am |
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Racnjsn the clutch on my 65 is the same as you described what yours does. It grabs right away & after awhile youll get used to it. I do know for a fact that 520 wheel cylinders will fit the 320's & napa should carry them.
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My 1965 L 320 {all original}
69 L 521 w/KA swap 94 Hardbody [custom] 74 620 project |
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RacnJsn95
Enthusiast
Joined: 28 July 2004 Posts: 240 |
Posted: 11 April 2006 at 9:22pm |
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I think I actually need a brake master cylinder... Are those available anywhere? I have to get this truck reliable in a hurry because it will be my daily transportation for a couple weeks while I look for a new vehicle to drive.
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pac. coast 521
Expert
Joined: 17 November 2003 Location: United States Posts: 1427 |
Posted: 11 April 2006 at 11:01pm |
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Another good Datsun site that has some good info on what parts will swap & actual part #'s is...
http://www.olddatsunpickuplovers.com/ Id try Napa 1st then go from there. |
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My 1965 L 320 {all original}
69 L 521 w/KA swap 94 Hardbody [custom] 74 620 project |
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RacnJsn95
Enthusiast
Joined: 28 July 2004 Posts: 240 |
Posted: 30 April 2006 at 7:52pm |
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I tried all the local parts places, and no one carried either a 320 or a 520/521 brake master cylinder. I knew there was one at the local junkyard that I just got the W53 head off of, so I ventured down there, and they had smashed it the day before. I'd pretty much let it sit untill today... I went down to a junkyard I don't usually go to because they are priced somewhat higher than the yard I normally go to. I was looking for a non-webbed Z manifold that I could whack the 2 middle cylinder runners out of to make myself a 510 injection manifold. I found one, but left it for another day. The I started looking at subaru diffys. out of about 7 Subarus, only 2 had rear ends. Both were 3.90 open diffs. Then I came across 3 520 pickups, one which had a good master cylinder. I picked it up for $10 bucks (thought it would have been a lot more), took it home, pulled the one off the 320, swapped the rods out, and blam! You got brakes (well almost, but not really). I still need to bleed the system, but If you pump it they start to work, which is a good sign. |
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RacnJsn95
Enthusiast
Joined: 28 July 2004 Posts: 240 |
Posted: 01 May 2006 at 10:58pm |
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My points came in today at the dealer. Yeah, they're a dealer only item now they're so old. Only 12 bucks though, so I didn't complain. they came in this really neat old plastic case that's red and clear, with an old faded sticker in mostly japanese letters... I got a bunch of valid part numbers for 320 tune up stuff. I know pac. coast 521 had a posting before, I tried to check and see if the numbers I got today were the same, but I couldn't find it, so here are the numbers I got... 22162-30104 : Cap 22145-58000 : Points (2 spiece 22157-46502 : Rotor I also dug through the dealer 320 book, and found the part number for a new ignition switch, and had them look it up. There are only 3 Nissan dealers in the country that currently have this part in stock, but I was unable to get a price. I'll have to call them tomorrow when they're open. 22102-50002 : Condensor |
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pac. coast 521
Expert
Joined: 17 November 2003 Location: United States Posts: 1427 |
Posted: 02 May 2006 at 5:36am |
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Good to see you have the new points. I was never able to locate some for mine, I just cleaned & re gapped mine. I wonder if the dealer you went to would let you scan some of the pages of thier 320 parts book for more part #'s??
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My 1965 L 320 {all original}
69 L 521 w/KA swap 94 Hardbody [custom] 74 620 project |
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RacnJsn95
Enthusiast
Joined: 28 July 2004 Posts: 240 |
Posted: 05 May 2006 at 4:49pm |
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Been doing some work on the truck again. Got it running really good! I managed to find the new points, and now a rotor. I put new plugs in today, as well as the rotor. I bought a universal key switch from baxter, so I don't have to hot wire it anymore. I've got brakes now. I bought some electrical contact cleaner, and cleaned all the contacts on the fuse box, and replaced all the fuses, and all the lights work now except for one. I've got high and low beam headlights, brake lights running lights, and all signals except for the drivers front. The socket is so rusted, and corroded I can't get a bulb in there. It's so bad it can't be repaired. Looks like the old bulb somehow melted into the socket, and melted away, then brought on rust and stuff. So I'll have to search for a new socket, and housing for that turnsignal. |
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At least the grille is still ok.
)