![]() | Projects North West Datsun Enthusiasts Forum : Member Rides : Projects Topic: Quick transmission swap & suspension drop | of 7 Next >> |
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Bleach
Guru ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 4806 |
![]() Posted: 01 March 2006 at 1:03am |
Ok, goals for this week (haha) are to swap rear axel from 4.375 to 4.11 axel, hook up parking brake cables, new fluid in axel, new drum install, adjust brakes, bleed rear brakes, 3" drop blocks, remove overload leaf, install Cadillac shocks, 1" carrier bearing spacer, replace carrier bearing support, 280ZX transmission swap, new clutch kit, remove intake/exhaust manifolds, port L16 intake, install L16 intakee/exhuast, ghetto rig exhaust, install bump steer spacers in front, turn over and swap upper control arms, install Pinto shocks in front, turn down torsion bars, and drink some SoBe. truck is up rear crossmember out, driveline out, oil drained, all bolts to the engine are off, speedo and backup connections are off stock rear shock on top. After this pic was taken, I think this might be a pinto shock for the front, but its about the same size as the Caddy shocks I have for the rear. Both front and rear will have shorter than stock shocks. nothing special here. the rear axel is out. piece of cake... no rear stuff... I think I'm going to remove the spare as well. maybe stick it in the bed. I'll put a cover on the bed soon anyway.
my beltec drop blocks. 3" angled blocks compared to the 2" flat blocks I was running |
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yello620
Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 July 2005 Location: United States Posts: 312 |
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Bleach Bump steer spacers in the front?? What is your plan here?? Never heard of a spacer for the datsuns. Jason |
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1976 620 L20b 4spd 04 xterra wheels 2056015's lowered 3.5", Front disk brakes.
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Bleach
Guru ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 4806 |
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Originally posted by yello620
Bump steer spacers in the front?? What is your plan here?? Never heard of a spacer for the datsuns. these are custom made by Odmanjohnson... before he dissapeared. it is a 1" thick plate that bolts between the ball joint and lower a-arm, just like the ones available for the Z-cars. |
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pac. coast 521
Expert ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 November 2003 Location: United States Posts: 1427 |
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Youve got your work cut out for yourself. Good luck!
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mklotz70
Expert ![]() Joined: 28 November 2004 Posts: 1811 |
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Hmm...pics of the bumpsteer and definitely the intake porting!! :)
Lovin' all the pics!! I'm way more apt to follow threads with pics!! .....even if it is a 620 :( haha!! |
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Don't have to be too bright to be me!
Gresham, OR |
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Bleach
Guru ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 4806 |
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work continues. I'll have more info and PICS in a couple hours...
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yello620
Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 July 2005 Location: United States Posts: 312 |
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I always thought that the bump steer spacers on the 510/Z cars wer installed between the strut base and the lower control arm/steering arm. Hence pushing the control arm and steering arm back closer to the angle they were stock. Thus helping the bumbsteer. On these cars you are not changing the upper pivot point either with the spacers(strut top). However, when you install a 1" spacer on a truck between the ball joint and the control arm. The steering arm is still attached to the spindle, so it only lowers the truck an extra inch. The tie rod angles continue to get worse. Along with changing the relationship between the upper and lower control arms. I can see how you will get better ride quality while riding an extra inch lower, but the tie rods angle(bumpsteer) still did not get fixed at all. Now with that said, I hope that i am wrong here. And i hope that it can be explained to me how this is actually working in a positive manner. Jason
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1976 620 L20b 4spd 04 xterra wheels 2056015's lowered 3.5", Front disk brakes.
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Bleach
Guru ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 4806 |
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Well, maybe you're right. Maybe they don't fix bump steer. They are ball joint spacers to lower the lower control arm 1". This helps in a very small way more shock travel and less negative camber on a lowered truck. I got the 4.11 axel out. I cleaned up the brakes which looked to be in good shape. Good seals on the cylinders and lots of brake shoe material. I installed some new drums I had laying around. Might as well. By the time these drums are bad I'll be doing a rear disc swap. I also put new gear oil in the axel So the shocks I had pictured yesturday are the Caddillac shocks. The Pinto shocks for the front are even shorter. But, as it turns out for right now the Caddy shocks are still too short. This is with the drop blocks and everything installed Ok, so since the overload leaf is gone and the 2" blocks are now swapped to 3" I raised the rearend untill it just came off the jackstands... This looks like the same clearance I had before! I'm not happy... I expected to be another 2 inches lower than this... Looks the same as it always has... it should be at least 1" lower due to the blocks. oh well, I'll finish the rest and get it back on the road. I can lower it more later if needed. The shocks need another 2 inches of drop and there's plenty of clearance above the axel.... |
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mklotz70
Expert ![]() Joined: 28 November 2004 Posts: 1811 |
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Is your front end on the ground with only the rear jacked up? Since the motor has a chunk of weight in front of the front wheel centerline, there's a forward weight transfer...no clue how much...but I would expect that when the rig is on level and on the ground, you will get a more accurate idea. If you have the front end off the ground, but the jack stands are on the frame behind the front wheels....even more pronounced.
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Don't have to be too bright to be me!
Gresham, OR |
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Bleach
Guru ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 4806 |
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no, unfortunatly the front wheels are up on wheel ramps. So all the weight is on the suspension when I have the jack under the rear axel. but ya, I'll get it on the ground later, jump in a bed, and then see where it sets. I can always go with 4" blocks. I am not going to go monoleaf though. I like having the thin helper spring under the main leaf.... gives me a little bit of security. Anyway, if the Cadillac shocks do work, here is some info on them. They are from the front of an early 80's Caddy. I drove out the pin you see that goes through the bushings. (came out easy) and they bolt right on. |
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pac. coast 521
Expert ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 November 2003 Location: United States Posts: 1427 |
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Bleach, with you going with a bigger block & yanking a leaf it should drop the rear 2 more inches, when its on the ground you'll see. So, the ball joint spacers will drop the front a bit more? Where do they get installed, i may be interested it making a set for my 620??
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Bleach
Guru ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 4806 |
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Unbolt the ball joint, put the spacer onto the A-arm, then bolt the lower ball joint back down with some longer bolts. (oh ya, these only work on disc brakes so 1978-79 only) It doesn't lower it, but it allows the lower arm to be 1" lower than the rest of the spindle. Its almost like a 1" drop spindle but not quite. (because the upper arm is still at the same angle) So imagine you drop your truck 5" by turning the torsion bars down. You put the spacer in, and even though the upper arm is the same, the lower arm is now really only needing to be dropped 4". So, the shock has slightly more travel and your lower arm angle is better for control. (pointed downward slightly more) and it bring the lower ball joint in about 1-2mm. I know, not much but its something. If I was there, I'd let you trace these... but you can probably just use a stock ball joint as a pattern. plus you have pics of the ones here. These were installed and used on another truck before. I'm having a rough time with the stupid parking brake tonight! I'm trying to swap over the cables from my other axel into this one. Very time consuming... and that's just what I don't need this week. |
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71-521
Expert ![]() ![]() Joined: 24 July 2005 Posts: 1522 |
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Originally posted by Bleach
it should be at least 1" lower due to the blocks. someone told me that the 3" angled blocks actually have the drop equivilent of like 2 1/2" due to the angle... I can't remember who it was but maybe that is the reason you can't see that much difference... did you do height measurements before the drop? |
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Bleach
Guru ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 4806 |
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Nope, I did not do height measurements before the drop. I figured it wouldn't matter. The angle is very small on these blocks. From the picture you can see that they are a third longer than the 2" blocks. Both angled blocks have the angles pointing the same way in the pic. You can see the difference is only about a quarter inch. this would make the middle about 1/8 of an inch less tall... well tonight I did a bunch of work on the rear brakes. The adjusters were completely seized up, the parking brake cables as well. I got both off of the other axel and partly installed. I also put new seals in the brake cylinders because everything was torn down anyway. Now comes the fun part.. trying to get those stupid springs accross the shoes. |
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Bleach
Guru ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 4806 |
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Also, I did see some shock extentions at AutoZone. They thread onto the end of the shocks and have the same bolt thread out the other side. This will allow your stock shocks to be bolted into a truck that has a suspension lift... likewise, in my case I'm running shorter shocks but may need just a little more extension for the shock to connect. I'll wait untill I get the truck on the ground before I decide on that purchase. |
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earwig
Enthusiast ![]() ![]() Joined: 09 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 857 |
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aren't you a busy Bleach. i used those extenders when i first raised my truck. they come in metric or SAE. be careful that they aren't too long and make the shocks bottom out before the suspension does. i found this out the hard way. snap goes the extension!
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red'76,620regularcab,longbed L20B,Supertrap,3"shackle4"body 31X10.5X15 chrome pathfinder rims,2tube front,1tube rear bumper,720 5speed&transfercase,Blaster coil,Pertronics ingitor dizzy,WeberDGV,K&N
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Bleach
Guru ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 4806 |
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Rebuilt by Bleach |
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oldird
Groupie ![]() ![]() Joined: 26 January 2003 Location: United States Posts: 72 |
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did ya use a little Bleach to clean that
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icehouse
Expert ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 April 2005 Location: United States Posts: 2115 |
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I vote for mono leaf and no torrsion bars :-)
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Bleach
Guru ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 4806 |
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The rear brake rebuild is complete, the driveshaft with a good rubber insulator around the carrier bearing is ready to install, but the transmision would not come out. It looks like I will need to put the tail end of it up through the floor in order to tilt the tranny enough to remove it. (as Datsunaholic suggested)
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