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Topic: Transmissions and clutches
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bullet Topic: Transmissions and clutches
    Posted: 27 March 2003 at 11:05pm

Help!!!!

I have a L20 in my 510.  Factory 4 speed went out.  Bought a 5 speed from 280z from '81.  Shortened driveshaft, installed new clutch slave, installed shifter, built crossmember.

Tranny fits with no problem.  Clutch doesn't disengage.  Meaning If you put the car in gear and start(attempt) the car it will jump even when the clutch pedal is depressed (and the slave cylinder is definately working). 

I assume I need a new clutch and/or flywheel and clutch.  I went to the parts store to enquire about clutches.  There are at least three different clutches for the 280 (not brands but completely different clutches). 

Can anyone help? 

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Hainz
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bullet Posted: 28 March 2003 at 10:46am
I assume you have the wrong T/O bearing. But Im not a expert on these conversions.
I had a wrong t/O bearing installed once. I forget the symtoms. It woundnt engage or disengage.
Also I had a worn flywheel which would always give a worn/slip after a year or so but the disc would always have alot of wear left. Put another uncut flywheel it been fine ever since.
I just know when installing a 5sp 200sx or and a Roadster clutch you use the 510 T/O bearing.
Banzai510
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Bleach
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bullet Posted: 28 March 2003 at 12:32pm

As for different Z-Car clutches, the flywheel/clutch is lets say 225mm on a 2-seater Z-car and the 2+2 and turbo cars use a 245mm clutch. (not sure if the numbers are exact) So one will grab harder, but the flywheels and clutches are not to be interchanged between the two. Your problem is probably nothing to do with that. Sounds like hainz is on the right track.

I have a 2+2 and I'm going to swap in a turbo transmission/clutch so I should not have any compatibility problems. I hope!

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earwig
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bullet Posted: 28 March 2003 at 1:27pm
aren't there two release bearings? one being 10mm taller than the other. i think that i saw something about it in Motorsport. i'd go to a parts store and have them do the old what model came with a different throw out bearing part number than  the '81 280 that you got your sh*t out of. it does sound like it needs more throw.
red'76,620regularcab,longbed L20B,Supertrap,3"shackle4"body 31X10.5X15 chrome pathfinder rims,2tube front,1tube rear bumper,720 5speed&transfercase,Blaster coil,Pertronics ingitor dizzy,WeberDGV,K&N
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bullet Posted: 28 March 2003 at 4:06pm

The car has been sitting since june without a transmission bolted on to it.  The brakes had rusted shut.  Is there a possibility that the clutch could have rusted up as well?  Also the T/O bearing could be the problem, that was my first reaction, but it was late and I really didn't feel like pulling the tranny out last night to find out.

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Bleach
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bullet Posted: 28 March 2003 at 4:29pm

oh ya, my truck did that in less time.

I had to snap the clutch pedal a few times to get it to disengage. I pushed the pedal to the floor, then slipped my foot off so the pedal snapped up hard. Do that a few times then try to start the car with the pedal all the way down. Repeat as nessisary.

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datsunaholic
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bullet Posted: 28 March 2003 at 4:44pm
I've had that happen too.  First time, the truck had been sitting for years so it took a disassemble and a crowbar to free it.  Second time, I put it in 1st, started the engine on a downhill run with the clutch pedal floored and drove around the block, stomping the gas, doing match-speed shifts until it broke free (2 times around the block).
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bullet Posted: 28 March 2003 at 9:29pm

Hey anyone know where to get a new clutch?  NOT AUTOZONE cuz they want me to prepay for something that might not fit without anything to reference.  I don't even know what car the motor I have came out of.  SO the bolt holes on the clutch are about 8.5" wide and there are six of them.

By the way, there was a little rust, a little bad t/o bearing, and a lot of bad pressure plate fins(springs whatever).  I'll replace the clutch and be drifting all the turns w/ my new five speed by the end of next week @ the latest.

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nwdeorg
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bullet Posted: 28 March 2003 at 10:31pm

There are actually three different throw out bearing collars. The TO bearings are all the same, but the collars are different heights. The important thing is installed height. I believe the correct height is 2.58" from the mounting surface on the PP to the top of the collar flange (the surface the the clutch fork contacts) with the TO bearing in place. Not sure what that is in MM. The Internet Z club has a reference to it their site. I toasted the clutch in the race car this way. Mine was .400" off and it never hooked up, spinning it's self to shreds on the pressure plate in just a couple of laps. I had to cut the remainence of a carbon fiber clutch material from around the started to get it out. 

Randy

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Hainz
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bullet Posted: 31 March 2003 at 8:50am
I would get the L-20B clutch that goes with it.
A Roadster clutch will not work cause a L-20 has a 6 bolt flywheel and the bolts holes are father out. You really need the correct throw out bearing. Maybe even the correct arm that actuates the lever but I am not sure.
I told you to email Ed!!!!!!!!! .He just done one
Lordedward56@msn.com. He has a L-20 with a 280z trans.
Banzai510
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