So since Bleach and I dropped in my latest l20b, I've been having a hell of a time getting it to run correctly. At first I thought I f**ked the timingup again, but after checking it over and over, turns out I actually handled it correctly for once. Blahblah, my weber is causing me all of the headaches. this I know for a fact. I took it apart yesterday for the 306th time, adjusted the floats, and bam! the secondary opened up and for a brief, beautiful second, I got to feel the power that my L20 can provide. well sh*t, it's not the engine at all! I built a solid L20!!!! then the truck died, I pushed it out of the intersection, pulled over and, wow, I didn't know you could fit so much gas into a carb. Seriously flooded, floats were way off. No biggie, adjusted them back, and I'm back to square one. It drives fine until i try to open up the secondary, then apparently it starves. But i cleaned all of the jets, so that's not it. Must be deep inside.

Anyways. I've got a great deal in the works over a 38/38. Supposedly solid. Has anyone ever tried one of these carbs on an l20? It seems to me that it is close to the equivalent of flattop 38mm su carbs, the bores are the same, they essentially open at the same time, just my setup would be a downflow vs. sidedraft. Any opinions, ideas, or feedback? Please?

I thought about doing the 38/38 DGES myself.  Pricey though.  I decided to go with a 42 DCNF.  Simple carb.  I was having similar probs w/ my 32/36 except mine leaned out real bad on the primary side.  I have a spare 40 DCNF if you want to try it.  You'll have to make an adapter for it.  Not for sale though.  If  you like it, there pretty easy to find for cheap.

BTW, this carb will be mated to a stock L16 w/ a 280/480 cam and an offy manifold.  Later I will have a closed chambered head machined for it as well.

~B

I'm looking for a good 3236. the one i have has seen better days. at first i was considering a 3838, but i don't want anymore headaches. If i got the 3838, i'd have to open up the manifold to allow the butterflies to open. i just want to find a solid weber3236. period. if you have a solid one that you know has no problems, pm me. we'll talk, I'm tired of f**king around. i want dependability. my motor is solid (finally), no cheezy sh*t goin on there, just the carb has had it.

And i want a choke, i removed my other one, stupidly. then I'll be able to start saving for a cam, lifters, and retainers.

You wont have to open up the intake to use a 38/38, the one on my L18 did not need any mods to fit once the adaptor was on and it is the short one.  The only porting you may want to do is cutting the seperate holes out to make one large oval hole for more direct flow. My carb also has a working electric choke.

Is there some way to determine if a used weber is used up? Before I throw $ into a rebuild kit and jets. What gos bad?

Thanks

As long as you don't bend, warp, or break anything like Hainz said, about the only thing that can go wrong with them is the holes for the butterfly shaft get worn excessively and it causes an erratic vacuum leak. Makes it hard to keep a good idle. You can have bushing put in them, but the cost may not be worth it. I put a bushing in another guys stock carb a couple of weeks ago and it took about 4 hours just to do the one. To do it right, you'd have to do at least the two for the main barrel....secondaries probably won't be worn out anyway. The other thing that can cause grief with the weber....and I just learned this about 10min ago while working on mine.....the holes for the choke shaft can get worn, allowing the choke butterflies to rub against the side of the barrel. Once the choke is open it isn't a prob, but with the choke closed, they stick when I try to get into the secondary.

You're right about working fine with wear.....when they get so sloppy that the butterflies have trouble centering.....that's when the shafts are too loose. No wiggle on the shaft is best, but some wiggle is pretty common. The carb I put the bushing in had about a 1/16" of play in the hole.