Ok here's what happened:A Few Days ago, i noticed that oil was leaking from between the block and my head.So i went to re-tighten my bolts,and also because i shaved the head,i added another washer to each bolt.Everything was going fine,i torqued the bolts according to a  pattern in the book,in small increments,until final torque of 61 Ft/lbs.But as i was tightening a bolt that is in the very back,from the driver's side,with the wrench set at 30ft/lbs it snapped.The rest of the bolts are fine.

Now the question:How to get it out without taking the head off(i do not want to do that)

Will the rest of the bolts hold the head enough not to cause further problems or leaks( All head bolts are NEW ,designed for a 280ZX Turbo,bought from Nissan Dealership)

Please help me out guys

Yeah, put ALOT of bearing grease on the drill bit (carbide) to catch all metal shavings that could drop into your valve train, and you should be good.

JB weld is strong but not that strong, the stuff will break away from the bolt at probably 20 pounds of pressure

if it broke off fairly flush you can put a nut over the hole and weld from the top of the bolt to the inside of the nut. let it cool down good and hope like hell. if its broken off down in then i'd try a reverse twist drill bit. i just retorqed my head bolts a while back and i was afraid the whole time that i was gonna end up in the boat you're in now. good luck.

been there... done that...

i just went ahead and pulled the head... of course i had the motor out doing a reassembly...

might as well replace the timing chain if it needs it... if you are gonna have the head off anyway...

there shouldnt be much pressure on the threads and an easy out should work...

I'm with Hainz.
Re-torqueing head gaskets (unless called for by the manufacture) is a recipe for disaster. They are made to operate at a certain crush thickness, and if they leak, they are bad and need to be replaced. L Series head bolts are designed to clinch at torque value, and still be able to stretch and rebound with the different expansion rates between the block and the head. Backing them off and retorqueing just stretches them even more if your lucky, or breaks them if you're not.

To truly fix it you will probably have to pull the head and if you are lucky enough to get the bolt out, then get new ones and replace. Use anti seize and chase the block threads with a tap first. If you can't get it out, it's drill and heli-coil time. Sorry dude, been there a couple of times, but both were removing the bolt.

 

i think i'm gonna spend the $150 and get a copper head gasket when i redo my engine this time. that and not reuse the same head bolts for the third time. i'm feeling lucky that i didn't snap one off too.

I would recommend pulling the head. If you remember to block the timing chain so the tensioner does not fall out it shouldn't take you too long to pull it. If you are sure the head is good (how long has it been on?) you might be able to get away without removing the exhaust and intake (but you will need to drop the exhaust pipe) and just lift the head up, pull out the bolt (use parrot jaw pliers to get it out) then clean it up, be sure to chase the threads and slide a new gasket in.

1342 Counter clock wise rotation on the distributor.

When you put the cam sprocket on the dowel on the cam should be in the 12 o clock postion. Say you pick #1 dowel and you #1 dimple will be in the 2 oclock position. Of coarse this is #1 piston on compression stroke. That means you #1 intake will be in the 11 o clock pos, and the exhause in the 2 o clock postion

There will be a V groove on the cam sprocket and it should be right below the dash on the timming plate on the cam tower. That should line up. That is a timmed cam.

At TDC the dist shaft will be in a 11.28 o clock postion as looking from the intake side of motor. Install the dsit and the dist should lock in and the rotor will point to #1 plug.
Hopefully you put the oil pump back in the correct way with the dimple lined up so the pump coms out in the 11.28 postion,

There is a dimple on the oil/dist shaft and the pil pump will have a cut out on the insert shaft. Line that up and install it together. When installing it it will turn abit. Do this till it comes out in the 11.28 postion. If not then somethin is wrong.

Ps hopefully you primed the oil pump again if you took it off and the oil went out.

If need more help I can send photos of how to line up the oil pump and photo of a dist shaft at TDC(11.28 postion.

If at TDC11.28 postion just install the dist till it locks then install rotor. Wher the rotor is at will be #1 plug wire. Then on the cap going CCW will be #3 plug then 4 and 2 fire order.
Give email address if need help.
This is EZ

i suggest getting the starter and alternator from nissanparts.cc

The Schucks alternator ,The Autolite brand I seem to have good luck. Unless thats what you have already in there. The old MPA brand sucked and would go thru a buch of them
Beck Arney Brand alternator seem OK also But more expensive(Napa)

I dont know what alternator you have a ,35 or 50 amp but I have the part#s at work

I would go to Radio shack and get the alternator /battery diode checker. This will help you trouble shoot if you dont have a volt meter. I believe they are about 6$. Make sure battery is charging OK.
Get new cables if you havent already.
also make sure the connector to the soliniod is tite and not barely on there.

I went with a gear reduction starter 78 280z from nissanparts.cc it was $97 +25$ core plus shipping and tax. part# 23300-N5903R enter on nissanparts.cc website Have part # then enter, will give price.
The stock starter is fine and is 51$ and alternator is 51$