2140 so it begin eth.

so, I'm assembling it in the storage room, at a bench. just got the oil pan back on, and all that buttoned up. next comes the timing cover and well, stuff. then, i'm not quite sure.

ahh, the advantages of living the apartment life.

Next is the head gasket, head, and then the timing chain set put on. Position #2 on the top sprocket.

Then the timing cover and stuff... right?

I think I'm gonna assemble all but the head, I may just put the head on last, like after it's in the truck. i really wanna do a valve job, and replace the oil seals on the valves, so, blah.

You have to put the head on before you can put the timing cover on and the timing chain. If you're going to do the head later, then you're done for now.

why do you say that? I don't see why I can't install thefront cover and the timing chain now, and then at install, put the head on. but, i haven;t ever swapped a block before. tell me.

How do you intend to keep the timing chain in place while you wait for the head? It's a heck of a lot easier to time it with the timing cover off. Then you KNOW the chain hasn't slipped and the tensioner hasn't popped off.

It is possible to align the chain on the crank with the head off but you will really, really wish the timing cover was off if you get it wrong. Bent valves are no joke.

Normal assembly procedure goes Block-Crank-Pistons-Head-Timing chain-timing cover-pan-oilpump-dist-manifolds.

Do NOT turn the engine upside-down once the oil pump is isntalled. The oil you prime it with will run out. With a fresh engine it is ESSENTIAL the pump is primed.

Good thing you posted here.

So, when you go to do the engine swap, you're also going to be removing the A87 off your current L16 and installing it on the L20b?
And then dropping the complete L20b into your truck.

That's an all day job... if you know what you're doing.

Ive done it both ways and highly recomennd putting head on and finish timing rather than running into a problem when engine is in your truck then dealing with the cover , radiator , all that stuff.

well, my ears (or eyes) are open. guess I should find a different head then, so I can still drive in the meantime.

I still need to buy a starter and roadster pressure plate, along with finding a (?) crankshaft oil thrower. the little ring that goes between the pulley and the dist gear. But I can reuse my engine mounts, right guys? and damn, what else? It seems like I'm forgetting something.

I think the ring you are talking about is a rather deep gear. It drives the distributor/oil pump shaft. I guess your block didn't come with one.

It would be best to get a head now and put the whole engine together. U67 is a good cheap head that will work for your application.

You are going with a Roadster pressure plate because some people think the Z-car clutch kit won't fit in your transmission?

I know its a lot to do, but this swap would be the perfect opportunity to swap to a 5-speed.

agreed, but well, you know, $$. The tranny can wait. and I don't want to use the z clutch because I want to use my smaller, a little lighter, 200mm flywheel. I'm willing to sacrifice a little low end grunt for slightly (pressumably) quicker revs. It's my gameplan never the less...............

and I'm suree that the ring that goes between the crankshaft sprocket andist. drive gear isn't supposta look like this, the picture sure seems to look a hell of alot more round. so, i need one.

Um, no, that isn't supposed to look like that at all. Someone put it on backwards. That or the timing chain broke and landed in the pan when the engine was still revving.

Almost half of the metal is missing.

It'll be fine! Just chew on it a little and put it back on the crankshaft.

i know where there are some heads,

Well then, has the Johnson Junkyard responded with any good U67 heads?

Author	Message
Ryan in Seattle Expert Joined: 08 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 2701	Topic: so it begin eth. Posted: 11 December 2004 at 1:28pm

	1973 620 "Prerunner" L20B,A87,5spd.Lynx,40dcoe, header,cammed & bored. zx oil pump,starter,headbolts & water pump/pulley.
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Bleach Guru Joined: 04 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 4806	Posted: 11 December 2004 at 1:54pm
	Nice red paint!
	Ratsun.net
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Ryan in Seattle Expert Joined: 08 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 2701	Posted: 11 December 2004 at 2:06pm
	so, I'm assembling it in the storage room, at a bench. just got the oil pan back on, and all that buttoned up. next comes the timing cover and well, stuff. then, i'm not quite sure. ahh, the advantages of living the apartment life.
	1973 620 "Prerunner" L20B,A87,5spd.Lynx,40dcoe, header,cammed & bored. zx oil pump,starter,headbolts & water pump/pulley.
	IP Logged

Bleach Guru Joined: 04 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 4806	Posted: 11 December 2004 at 2:09pm
	Next is the head gasket, head, and then the timing chain set put on. Position #2 on the top sprocket. Then the timing cover and stuff... right?
	Ratsun.net
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Ryan in Seattle Expert Joined: 08 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 2701	Posted: 12 December 2004 at 1:01am
	I think I'm gonna assemble all but the head, I may just put the head on last, like after it's in the truck. i really wanna do a valve job, and replace the oil seals on the valves, so, blah.
	1973 620 "Prerunner" L20B,A87,5spd.Lynx,40dcoe, header,cammed & bored. zx oil pump,starter,headbolts & water pump/pulley.
	IP Logged

Bleach Guru Joined: 04 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 4806	Posted: 12 December 2004 at 1:18am
	You have to put the head on before you can put the timing cover on and the timing chain. If you're going to do the head later, then you're done for now.
	Ratsun.net
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Ryan in Seattle Expert Joined: 08 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 2701	Posted: 12 December 2004 at 1:53am
	why do you say that? I don't see why I can't install thefront cover and the timing chain now, and then at install, put the head on. but, i haven;t ever swapped a block before. tell me.
	1973 620 "Prerunner" L20B,A87,5spd.Lynx,40dcoe, header,cammed & bored. zx oil pump,starter,headbolts & water pump/pulley.
	IP Logged

datsunaholic Moderator Group Joined: 05 December 2002 Posts: 4079	Posted: 12 December 2004 at 2:15am
	How do you intend to keep the timing chain in place while you wait for the head? It's a heck of a lot easier to time it with the timing cover off. Then you KNOW the chain hasn't slipped and the tensioner hasn't popped off. It is possible to align the chain on the crank with the head off but you will really, really wish the timing cover was off if you get it wrong. Bent valves are no joke. Normal assembly procedure goes Block-Crank-Pistons-Head-Timing chain-timing cover-pan-oilpump-dist-manifolds. Do NOT turn the engine upside-down once the oil pump is isntalled. The oil you prime it with will run out. With a fresh engine it is ESSENTIAL the pump is primed.
	'64 320 '68 520 '72 521 V6 '74,75,79 620s '76,78 4X4 '76 KC '72 510 Wgn '78 B210 '78,81 510 Wgn 2X '78 510 Coupes '83 720 KC
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Bleach Guru Joined: 04 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 4806	Posted: 12 December 2004 at 3:02pm
	Good thing you posted here. So, when you go to do the engine swap, you're also going to be removing the A87 off your current L16 and installing it on the L20b? And then dropping the complete L20b into your truck. That's an all day job... if you know what you're doing.
	Ratsun.net
	IP Logged

pakal Enthusiast Joined: 09 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 400	Posted: 12 December 2004 at 10:36pm
	Ive done it both ways and highly recomennd putting head on and finish timing rather than running into a problem when engine is in your truck then dealing with the cover , radiator , all that stuff.
	Datsuns gone , VW's gone , but the knowledge remains
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tdaaj Expert Joined: 02 March 2003 Posts: 2367	Posted: 12 December 2004 at 11:47pm
	at least its pertty
	numourous amount of datsuns 1 jeep 2 troopers 1 chevy 70 chrysler newport 383 power 71 Plymouth Fury 3 (girlfriends car)
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Ryan in Seattle Expert Joined: 08 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 2701	Posted: 13 December 2004 at 7:51am
	well, my ears (or eyes) are open. guess I should find a different head then, so I can still drive in the meantime.
	1973 620 "Prerunner" L20B,A87,5spd.Lynx,40dcoe, header,cammed & bored. zx oil pump,starter,headbolts & water pump/pulley.
	IP Logged

Ryan in Seattle Expert Joined: 08 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 2701	Posted: 13 December 2004 at 8:44am
	I still need to buy a starter and roadster pressure plate, along with finding a (?) crankshaft oil thrower. the little ring that goes between the pulley and the dist gear. But I can reuse my engine mounts, right guys? and damn, what else? It seems like I'm forgetting something.
	1973 620 "Prerunner" L20B,A87,5spd.Lynx,40dcoe, header,cammed & bored. zx oil pump,starter,headbolts & water pump/pulley.
	IP Logged

Bleach Guru Joined: 04 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 4806	Posted: 13 December 2004 at 9:54am
	I think the ring you are talking about is a rather deep gear. It drives the distributor/oil pump shaft. I guess your block didn't come with one. It would be best to get a head now and put the whole engine together. U67 is a good cheap head that will work for your application. You are going with a Roadster pressure plate because some people think the Z-car clutch kit won't fit in your transmission? I know its a lot to do, but this swap would be the perfect opportunity to swap to a 5-speed.
	Ratsun.net
	IP Logged

Ryan in Seattle Expert Joined: 08 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 2701	Posted: 13 December 2004 at 2:15pm
	agreed, but well, you know, $$. The tranny can wait. and I don't want to use the z clutch because I want to use my smaller, a little lighter, 200mm flywheel. I'm willing to sacrifice a little low end grunt for slightly (pressumably) quicker revs. It's my gameplan never the less...............
	1973 620 "Prerunner" L20B,A87,5spd.Lynx,40dcoe, header,cammed & bored. zx oil pump,starter,headbolts & water pump/pulley.
	IP Logged

Ryan in Seattle Expert Joined: 08 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 2701	Posted: 13 December 2004 at 4:39pm
	and I'm suree that the ring that goes between the crankshaft sprocket andist. drive gear isn't supposta look like this, the picture sure seems to look a hell of alot more round. so, i need one.
	1973 620 "Prerunner" L20B,A87,5spd.Lynx,40dcoe, header,cammed & bored. zx oil pump,starter,headbolts & water pump/pulley.
	IP Logged

datsunaholic Moderator Group Joined: 05 December 2002 Posts: 4079	Posted: 13 December 2004 at 4:46pm
	Um, no, that isn't supposed to look like that at all. Someone put it on backwards. That or the timing chain broke and landed in the pan when the engine was still revving. Almost half of the metal is missing.
	'64 320 '68 520 '72 521 V6 '74,75,79 620s '76,78 4X4 '76 KC '72 510 Wgn '78 B210 '78,81 510 Wgn 2X '78 510 Coupes '83 720 KC
	IP Logged

Bleach Guru Joined: 04 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 4806	Posted: 13 December 2004 at 5:28pm
	It'll be fine! Just chew on it a little and put it back on the crankshaft.
	Ratsun.net
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tdaaj Expert Joined: 02 March 2003 Posts: 2367	Posted: 14 December 2004 at 8:13pm
	i know where there are some heads,
	numourous amount of datsuns 1 jeep 2 troopers 1 chevy 70 chrysler newport 383 power 71 Plymouth Fury 3 (girlfriends car)
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Bleach Guru Joined: 04 December 2002 Location: United States Posts: 4806	Posted: 14 December 2004 at 10:31pm
	Well then, has the Johnson Junkyard responded with any good U67 heads?
	Ratsun.net
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